Le Grand Départ 2024

On the first day of our regional familiarisation trip with Emilia Romagna, we embarked on a fantastic ride, starting on the flat coastal plain before crossing the Rubicon River at Savignano Sul Rubicone. This town holds historical significance as it was where Julius Caesar crossed from Gaul, altering the course of the Roman Empire from a Republic to a dictatorship. It marked our entry into the hilly terrain ahead.

Before long, we found ourselves ascending to Ronccofreddo, where the recently paved climbs proved to be absolutely incredible to conquer.

Descending from Roncofreddo, we then ascended to Sogliano, encountering a charming climb with 18 switchbacks, each one more picturesque than the last, all on beautifully laid tarmac.

Sogliano is renowned for its Fosse cheese, named after the caves, or “fossas,” where the cheese is aged. During our visit, we were graciously hosted by the Brandinelli family, who are esteemed cheese makers in Sogliano. The father and son had meticulously prepared a delightful spread for us to enjoy.

And onto lunch we went—an incredible experience awaited us. We were presented with three distinct cheeses, each crafted from different types of milk: one from sheep, one sourced locally, and another from outside the region. These cheeses had been carefully aged for up to 25 months in the caves beneath the dairy, carved into the volcanic Tuffa rock. This unique aging process imparted a distinctive flavour to the cheese, making each bite a memorable culinary adventure.

Emilia-Romagna is celebrated as the breadbasket of Italy, renowned for its exceptional culinary offerings, including Balsamic Vinegar from Modena, Parmesan Cheese, and Bolognese Sauce. The region’s capital, Bologna, proudly bears the motto “The Fat, The Learned, and The Red,” reflecting its status as home to one of Europe’s oldest universities, its exquisite cuisine, and the distinctive red brick architecture that defines the cityscape. Additionally, Sogliano stands out as a DOP region for cheese, making it a destination well worth exploring for cheese enthusiasts.

A fast drop off and back towards Cesenatico the port of Cessna connected by a canal to the city and designed by Leonardo Da Vinci.

The second day presented a less demanding climb, with just one ascent to Longiano offering breathtaking views across the region. Along the way, we encountered an intriguing tunnel carved into the rock, stretching from one side of the town to the other. Interestingly, this tunnel served as an air raid shelter during World War II.

Descending from the climb, we navigated through a series of smooth switchbacks, eventually arriving back in Cesenatico. Here, we revisited Hotel Lungomare and were once again impressed by its exceptional bike-friendly amenities. From secure storage to bike maintenance and washing facilities, the hotel offers everything a cyclist could need. Silvia, the hotelier, was incredibly helpful and charming, embodying the hospitality of the Lungomare establishment run by her family.

Cycling is deeply ingrained in Emelia Romana’s culture, boasting bike-friendly hotels offering excellent amenities, challenging yet enjoyable hills, exquisite cuisine, and picturesque hillside town.

Marco Pantani, the controversial cyclist, hails from Cesenatico. During our visit to the Pantani Museum, we explored the legacy of this celebrated figure in Emilia Romagna. Despite being a fallen hero, Pantani is viewed more as a victim of the system rather than a cynical doper. Here, I am pictured with his niece and his memorial located in the heart of Cesenatico.

The region is characterised by its expansive flat coastal area, extending from Veneto down to Marche, bordered by the swift SS 16 road and a developed Adriatic coastline strip. Having visited this area numerous times, often lodging in Cesenatico, I’ve experienced its charm firsthand.

Navigating the coastal region can be a challenge due to the bustling traffic, and in recent years, some road surfaces have deteriorated due to weather conditions. However, despite these challenges, the region hosts nine Granfondos, each offering exhilarating routes that typically start with a speedy jaunt to the hills before transitioning into challenging climbs, adding to the allure of cycling in this picturesque area. The most famous of these Granfondo’s is the Nove Colli or nine hills with the famous Barbotto climb with it’s murderous gradients and party atmosphere as your crest the climb.

For our third and final day I partook in the 27^th Club Fantini Granfondo from Cervia I was amazed at the speed and skill of the local riders who had come out in their thousands to ride the event.

When considering a destination for cyclists, this region boasts numerous appealing features. Along the coast, you’ll find a wide selection of local hotels catering to all preferences and budgets, ranging from luxurious accommodations to more budget-friendly options. Whether you’re seeking a unique experience or simply aiming for the classic “eat, sleep, cycle, repeat” routine, there’s something here for everyone.

While the coastal scenery may not rival some of Italy’s more renowned regions, and the infrastructure may not be as developed as some other European destinations for training camps, you’ll still discover plenty of options to suit your needs. The team at Terrabici will assist you with any arrangements you require, ensuring a smooth and enjoyable stay.

My time in the region left me with tired legs and a slightly weary head from burning the candle at both ends. However, it was an exhilarating experience, filled with camaraderie among my fellow  group of cyclists with whom I shared the experience from Lithuania, Ireland, Australia, Spain, Austria, and Italy. In the words of the admired British cycling heroine, Beryl Burton, “there’s nobody like cycling folk!”